Tips & Tricks · Tutorial

Mini Dresden Pinnie Tips, Part 4

Today I’m sharing how to construct your Mini Dresden Pinnie!  You can find Part 3 of this series here and you can find the tutorial for the Mini Dresden Pinnie here.

First, grab your completed Mini Dresden top.  Next, you need your 6×6 inch backing fabric and four sides, which measure 1.5×6 inches each.First, we are going to sew our sides together.  Take two of the 1.5×6 inch strips and place them right sides together.  You are going to sew a seam down one of the short sides, leaving 1/4 inch at the top and bottom, backstitching to start and stop.  Here I have marked where you will start and stop stitching. This is what it will look like when you are done.  Continue adding pieces, stitching in the same manner, leaving 1/4 inch to start and stop each time, until you have all four connected into one long strip.  Then take the first and last pieces in this chain, place them right sides together, and stitch in the same manner.  You will end up with a continuous loop that looks like this. Grab your completed pinnie top and place face up.  Take your loop and flatten out one of the sides a bit, matching seams up on both ends.  You can pin if you’d like, but I never do.  I just hold it as I take it to my machine.  Using a 1/4 inch seam, begin stitching 1/4 inch from the end seam, backstitching to secure. Pull the side to the left of your needle up and out of the way before you begin so you don’t catch it in the side you are working on.  Again, stop 1/4 inch from the end, holding the other side out of the way, backstitching to secure.Continue, stitching down all four sides in the same manner, always starting and stopping 1/4 inch from the edge, until you have something like this. Now, grab your backing piece and place it right side up.  Take your completed top and place it on top, right side down, paying attention to fabric direction if your backing fabric is directional. Match up the corners of two sides, laying the side flat along one edge. Again, you can pin if you’d like, but I never do. Use the same process as before, 1/4 inch seam, begin and end 1/4 inch before each end and backstitch to secure.  Continue on 3 sides.  On the fourth side, we are going to leave an opening for turning and stuffing the pincushion.  Use the same method, but leave a 2 -3 inch opening in the middle, backstitching several times on each side of the opening.  Carefully turn your pinnie right side out through the opening and use a tool or chopstick to ease the corners out, being careful not to poke too hard.  This step is really important.  You might be tempted to skip it to save time, but I think it results in a really nice and square pinnie.  Iron all eight seams you just created.  Roll the side under, and use your iron to square up the side.  (Sorry for my yucky ironing board cover…. I hope to make a new one soon!) Flip the pinnie over and do the same thing on the back seams, paying special attention to the seam on the side with an opening.  Press this as evenly as possible, which will make it easier to have a clean seam to hand stitch closed.  Now, it should look something like this and you’re ready to stuff. I know people use lots of different materials including crushed walnut shells to stuff pinnies, which give a wonderful weight to the pincushion.  I use plain old Poly-fil. Take a small handful, fluff it up a bit and stuff it in through your opening.Continue until you’re getting close to full, keeping the filling as evenly distributed as possible.  A couple times while stuffing, I lay the pinnie down and give it a good squish with the palm of my hand, rubbing in a circular motion to even it out as much as possibleThis is about how full I like mine to be.Next, I use a craft clip to hold my opening shut while I stitch it closed.Almost there!  Gather up your supplies to hand stitch.  I use a small needle, and again, love to use Bottom Line thread as it disappears when hand stitching.  I also use my Unicorn Thread Gloss from RobotMom Sews to keep the thread nice and easy to work with.  Tie a knot in your thread, then take your needle up through the seam, starting inside the opening.  Tuck the tail of the thread down into the opening and then take a couple of very small stitches inside the top of the opening, catching just the inside fabric. I usually work from left to right, so after the picture above, I have flipped the pinnie around.I just do two stitches each time I run the needle throuh, catching the back of the pinnie and the side, always grabbing only the inner fold of the seam. Here, if you look closely, you can see the stitches on the inside, but no thread is showing on the outisde.  Continue until you have sewn the entire opening shut.  Then, take a stitch or two past the opening and bring your needle up through the middle seam, pulling the thread through as in the picture below. Tie a knot or two at the base, right against the spot where the thread is coming out, then poke your needle right back through that spot and poke it out, a few inches away,  pulling the thread through to bury your knot.Trim the excess thread away.  Now, you have a finished seam!  Mine did not look anything like this when I first started using this method, so don’t be discouraged if yours don’t look as neat the first time….or second or third.  Just keep practicing!I like to flip the pinnie over and give it one more good massage, using my palm in a circular motion to evenly distribute all of the stuffing.And there you have it… a finished Mini Dresden Pinnie!Thank you so much for sewing along with me. I hope you found some helpful tips and tricks. If you make a pinnie, and share over on Instagram, I’d love to see it.  Please use the #minidresdenpinnie hashtag and tag me @quiltyobsession.

Feel free to leave a comment with any tips you have to share, or questions you have about the pinnie. I would be happy to help. Happy Sewing!

7 thoughts on “Mini Dresden Pinnie Tips, Part 4

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